PRIMER: EATING IN ITALY 101
By Pamela Birchard
After working in U.S. restaurants for a little over five years, I've learned the etiquette of dining out, including what and when to ask for service, and how to leave an accurate tip. Coming to Italy threw me off guard. The range of Italian methods to dining out changes the way I am used to experiencing a meal.
First off, Italians aren't in a rush when eating. They want to enjoy every last bite. Lunch, or siesta, happens later in the afternoon and is the biggest and longest meal of the day. The traditional siesta was a way for Italian families to spend time together around their busy lives. The market is only open until 14:00 so the freshest bread, vegetables and pastas are purchased in the morning and prepared almost right away.
Around our usual dinner time is when Italians enjoy a snack, or apertivo. Small dishes, maybe even nuts and chips, are provided with a cocktail. It is a social experience, to enjoy the end of daylight before the night begins. This is my favorite time of the day. It is casual and gives you something to hold you over before the real dinner menus are available.
When dining out, the ordering method varies depending on where you go. Locations for food vary from caffeteria to ristorante. A caffeteria is my least favorite, mostly because everything is displayed in front of you and then reheated when ordered. A trattoria is usually a family-owned restaurant, with a limited menu known for the specials of the day. You can order an appetizer, a meat dish and a dessert for around 10 euro.
A pizzeria is known for, well it's pizza, which is usually prepared in a wood burning oven. Small pasta dishes are also available. A ristorante is the highest quality of dining and includes a wide arrangement of dishes, from antipasta, first and main courses, as well as pizzas. A typical antipasta is a salad or bruschetta. First courses are usualy pasta dishes and main courses are usually speciality and meat dishes. Sometimes a first course alone is enough to fill you up.
The surroundings at ristorantes are more sophisticated and offer a bigger wine selection. The smaller places mostly offer their house wine, not the best quality but at a great price. A half liter can cost only 6 euros!
A wine instructor said it's better to spend the couple extra euros on a better wine then continually get the house. A culinary student said most foreigners come to Italy and only get pizza and pasta, so don't be afraid to branch out.
Depending on which level of dining out you choose to experience, especially depending on where you choose to sit, the tip policy changes. Waiters won't bring you a check when they assume you're done, because, once again, Italians want to indulge and enjoy their meals.
TIPS:
When you are ready to leave, simply say "il conto per favore" to ask for the check. Most places include the tip, or even a cover charge if you want to sit. It will say on the menu "servizio incluso" or on the bill you will find a small charge labeled "coverto" for cover charge. It is only necessary to leave a few coins on top of that, usually around 5 percent.
Never pay more that 4 euros for a coffee or gelato if you aren't going to sit and enjoy. If you choose to sit and there is no cover charge, sometimes the higher price makes up for the atmosphere.
GOOD FOOD NEAR THE DUOMO
By: Kim Manning
As Italian food is near and dear to my heart, I was ecstatic to come to the land of pizza, pasta and bread: the three main food groups.
DISCLAIMER: Italian pizza is much different. The crust is thinner and crispier, it’s lighter and fresher and you don’t feel guilty about polishing off an entire one to yourself.
Osteria Dell Agnolo, located about a block away from the Duomo on Borgo San Lorenzo 24/r, has a Tomato Cucumber and Basil salad for 5 euro that is perfect for hot summer days. The oval plate is dressed in garden fresh veggies, and I added a little olive oil and balsamic for a delicious spin-off of a caprese salad.
Next, the Salame Piccante pizza, (pepperoni) for 7 euro is crisp with a thin layer of oil and tomato with light cheese with sporadic, thick salame. The sauce is tangy, but light and is a perfect complement to the additional toppings and smokey flavor that comes from their wood burning oven.
The pizza overflows on a large serving plate, but can be shared… if you’re willing.
As Frank Sinatra sings in the background, share a ½ liter of wine with a friend at only 8 euro and snack on some bread with oil and parmesan cheese as you wait for your meal at Da’i Boia, a quiet trattoria just east of the Duomo at Dell’Oriulo 58/R.
For an entrée; I had the Gnocchi, Gorgonzola e Rugola, 8 euro, which is in a creamy sauce with lightly dusted Arugula adding a fresh flavor to compliment the rich gnocchi dumplings.
Unlike many American Italian-style dishes, these look skimpy at first sight as noodles don’t even span the entire plate, however, your stomach will disagree with your eyes afterwards.
Adding to the experience, Tony Vincenzo will serve your food with a smile on his face while singing the entire time. And if you’re lucky, Tony might surprise you at the end of your meal with some limoncello… Salute.
Da’I Boia is open from 12,00 to 1,00am everyday and Dell Agnolo is open from 12,00 to 1,30am.
DISCLAIMER: Italian pizza is much different. The crust is thinner and crispier, it’s lighter and fresher and you don’t feel guilty about polishing off an entire one to yourself.
Osteria Dell Agnolo, located about a block away from the Duomo on Borgo San Lorenzo 24/r, has a Tomato Cucumber and Basil salad for 5 euro that is perfect for hot summer days. The oval plate is dressed in garden fresh veggies, and I added a little olive oil and balsamic for a delicious spin-off of a caprese salad.
Next, the Salame Piccante pizza, (pepperoni) for 7 euro is crisp with a thin layer of oil and tomato with light cheese with sporadic, thick salame. The sauce is tangy, but light and is a perfect complement to the additional toppings and smokey flavor that comes from their wood burning oven.
The pizza overflows on a large serving plate, but can be shared… if you’re willing.
As Frank Sinatra sings in the background, share a ½ liter of wine with a friend at only 8 euro and snack on some bread with oil and parmesan cheese as you wait for your meal at Da’i Boia, a quiet trattoria just east of the Duomo at Dell’Oriulo 58/R.
For an entrée; I had the Gnocchi, Gorgonzola e Rugola, 8 euro, which is in a creamy sauce with lightly dusted Arugula adding a fresh flavor to compliment the rich gnocchi dumplings.
Unlike many American Italian-style dishes, these look skimpy at first sight as noodles don’t even span the entire plate, however, your stomach will disagree with your eyes afterwards.
Adding to the experience, Tony Vincenzo will serve your food with a smile on his face while singing the entire time. And if you’re lucky, Tony might surprise you at the end of your meal with some limoncello… Salute.
Da’I Boia is open from 12,00 to 1,00am everyday and Dell Agnolo is open from 12,00 to 1,30am.
FINDING THE BEST GELATO
By: Christen Calloway
Gelato is an art form in Florence, and Grom has mastered it. My favorite flavors have been Lampone (raspberry) and Pistacchio. In each fruit flavor, you can taste and feel the pulp or the seeds from the fruit it was created with. Even Pistacchio has the actual bits of nut inside of every bite. The Stracciatella uses dark chocolate with a rich creme base that melts in your mouth.Grom prides itself on being organic and green; even the spoons are biodegradable and compostable.
Tip: Sometimes Grom runs out of certain flavors towards the closing during the summer, don’t be discouraged; try something else, be adventurous! Everything I have tried has been delicious, even if I normally wouldn’t order it.
Another delicious spot is Gelateria di Neri, where locals line up outside the door for delicious Frutti di Bosco (mixed berries) and Fragola (strawberry). These flavors are common at most gelaterias but the difference is that the seeds are still in the fruit gelato, which is a good way to tell that the gelato is made from real fruit and not powder.
Tip: While gelaterias off of main streets and near major landmarks are usually ridiculously price and not very satisfying, Grom is in an alley way near the Duomo and a small cup only costs 2 Euro. If you’re paying more than 2.50 Euro for the smallest cup, you’re getting ripped off.
How to get there: Grom is the first street on the right of the Duomo if facing steps at the front entrance, it looks like a random alley way but the line will tell you you've found it. Gelateria di Neri is on the street in between Palazzo Vecchio and the Uffizi, follow the street around a couple of blocks and you’ll see the pink neon sign.
MAKING YOUR OWN
By Ashley McHale
Living in a historic city such as Florence leaves you surrounded by pricey Trattorias and Ristorantes, so making meals in your living space can help keep your wallet in tact. Visit the grocery stores and markets often enough and you can create your own Italian cuisine on a good budget. Grocery stores are easy to find. Despar is a popular chain of grocery stores in the historic area of Florence and there are also other chains of stores such as Supermercati II Centro, which has five locations in the main area of the city. Make sure to get to one of the markets: Mercato Centrale or Mercato di Sant’ Amrogio, before they close which is at 2pm daily and are closed on Sunday.
Pick up a few items that could make a dinner for four while costing only 15.00 euro. The markets are the best place to shop for fresh vegetables, fruits, meats, cheeses, oils, spices and wine. The grocery stores carry all of these things as well.
Putting together simple dishes such as pastas and salads can be very easy to do in a kitchen with a stove, refrigerator and basic utensils. Purchasing pasta noodles such as farfalle and penne at supermarkets can be as low as .75 euro and up to 1.50 euro depending on the size of bag you buy. With a bag costing only .75 euro you can feed up to 5 people depending on how hungry you and your guests are.
When buying things to accompany pasta such as olive oil, pesto sauce or pomodoro sauce (tomato sauce), it is better to go to a market. Usually the vendors can assist you with your purchases and tell you what sauces and spices pair with either pasta or to make an appetizer with.
Adding olive oil to your pasta can easily be done, it is very common in a lot of Italian dishes, go to a vendor specifically selling olive oil and ask to try different kinds. This way you get to know what you like and maybe even get some history behind the brands that you taste. “Olives come from every region and will have a different taste from each region depending on the weather in which they are grown, if they are grown in hotter regions they will have a stronger taste,” said Ilaria Colombo, manager of Marconcini a wine and olive oil shop in the Mercato Centrale.
Being creative in the kitchen with fresh, authentic, Italian ingredients can be an experience in itself. Picking up a bag of pasta, a few tomatoes, a bag of spices (a mix of oregano and red pepper flakes), olive oil and bufala mozzarella can make a salad and up to 6 servings of pasta, for three people it can be up to two dishes each.
This will only set you back 15.00 euro, which would include a bottle of olive oil for 10.00 euro that can last weeks. Accompany your meal with a glass of wine or two, for you and your guests. A bottle of red or white at most grocery stores can be as low as 3.00 euro. Eating an authentic Italian meal on a budget can easily be done and can also be a terrific experience. So don’t let high price menus discourage you from soaking in Italian cuisine, get hungry, get inspired and eat up!
INDULGE!
By Nancy Day (and friends)
In preparation for teaching Travel Writing: Florence, I asked knowledgeable friends for their advice. I share some of the best here, first from Nicola, who grew up in Italy, and next from Linda, a world traveler and gourmet cook.
No surprise, FOOD -- fresh, simple, delicious -- is the focus.
Nicola writes:
Five weeks in Italy... wow! I wish I could go back for a long trip and enjoy the Tuscan countryside. It is truly breathtaking, especially when you travel a bit in the towns and cities spread throughout Tuscany. I'm not sure if you'll have access to a car, but an area you should definitely consider visiting (maybe even spending the weekend) is about an hour and a half drive south of Florence: It is an imaginary line connecting the towns of Pienza (amazing cheeses), Montepulciano (amazing wines, especially the lesser known Nobile di Montepulciano, and breathtaking views on the valleys below) and Montalcino (also famous for its wines and cured meats).
If you decide to spend the weekend there, you might consider visiting Siena, which is south of Florence and just a bit north of this area I just described.
All around the Pienza-Montepulciano-Montalcino area are various towns that have lived for centuries off the thermal waters and springs that are all around the region. The most famous is Chianciano Terme, but it has become very touristy as of late and is full of expensive hotels. A lesser known but very beautiful town is Bagno Vignoni, including the surrounding area, which is also equipped with all the needs the occasional visitor might need (thermal pools, spas, etc.).
I've recently read a book about Mario Batali, the famous chef who now lives in New York. Most of his culinary genius is due to the year-long experience of cooking he had in a small town named Porretta, on the border between Tuscany and Emilia-Romagna. That might be a little out of the way and I wouldn't recommend going there, but another area you don't want to miss is the beautiful town of San Gimignano. Not far away is a nice little town on a hill named Colle di Val d'Elsa, also worth a look. Now here's the reason I mention the Batali book (a very enjoyable read titled "Heat" and written by New Yorker columnist Bill Buford): Buford spends a long time learning to become a butcher at Dario Cecchini's meat shop (http://dariocecchini.blogspot.com/). It is probably the most famous meat shop in Italy, if not in the world, and is much more than just that. From the book it seems to be an incredible place where Cecchini reads aloud Dante while serving delicious sauces over bruschetta. I'll definitely go there next time I visit Tuscany. The road is hilly and it's an hour drive from San Gimignano to Panzano in Chianti (where Cecchini's butcher shop is), but I think it's worth the ride. The reason being once you're in Panzano, you're in one of the most beautiful areas of Italy: the Chianti region. Of course, don't forget to try out the wines there, too!
Lastly, to finish off this food-centric e-mail on Tuscany, if you end up going west to visit Pisa you might as well stop on your way back in Lucca.
Please forgive me if I indulged in talking about the beauties of Tuscany, but I really feel it is a region that is worth living at its fullest. That's also why I suggest you don't restrain yourself when it comes to food. It is an essential part of the Italian experience.
From Linda:
Our most memorable meal was at Da Antonio Restaurant in the village of Castelnuovo Berandenga, Siena. There is no menu. He serves a multi-course all fish and seafood meal that was truly remarkable. The restaurant at the inn where we stayed was very good and the inn is really lovely in a beautiful setting. It is roughly one hour from Florence near the town of Sinalunga, Siena and is called Locanda dell’Amorosa. We did a number of day trips and we enjoyed particularly Siena (the town hall has a famous mural of good and bad government); San Gimignano (has 14 towers remaining from the middle ages); Monte Oliveto Maggiore, 14th century monastery with beautiful cloister with frescoes. We didn’t have time to visit gardens in Tuscany, although we stopped at a couple en route from Rome and also visited a couple outside Rome (Hadrian’s Villa at Tivoli and Villa d’Este, Tivoli), which we enjoyed a lot.
