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Four lively young women comprise the Travel Writing: Florence course. In the first photo, they are learning more about wine making and tasting at the Tuscan Wine School in Siena.
Left to right, they are Pamela Birchard, Ashley McHale, Christen Calloway and Kimberly Manning. All are Columbia College Chicago Journalism Department magazine majors except for Christen, who is a Photography major.
In the next photo, La Nazione reporter Francesca Cavini had a working lunch with the American reporters near the newspaper's office in Florence to discuss their final projects, news features on such subjects as graffiti, vegetarianism, a unique street performers festival and the flocks of Americans who journey here to learn to cook real Italian food.

Funicolare

By Nancy Day

Certain steep hillsides in Italy are equipped with funicolari. The one I traveled on was the Funicolare di Montenero, in a village just south of Livorno. When my daughter and I visited in July to escape the Florence heat, we met no other Americans, nor were there any other visitors to our hotel who didn’t get there by car. We took our backpacks on the train from the Santa Maria Novello main station in Florence to Livorno, then took City Bus 2 to its last stop in a Montenero square, right across the street from the entrance to the funiculare. For one euro each (you buy a ticket, just like at the train stations), you are allowed through the turnstile to await the next run of the driver-less cable car, about 20-minute intervals on a weekday. The ride back down is included, and the views from the top are worth it, even if you aren’t staying overnight or hauling groceries, kids or luggage.

I also recommend this quiet hotel, La Vedetta. On weekends, dinner is served al fresco to hotel guests, freshly caught seafood a specialty. It felt as if we were at an Italian villa with our own staff, surrounded by flowers, fresh breezes, and dining by candle light, with a sunset view of the sea.
www.hotellavedetta.it

Italian Dining 101

By Pamela Birchard

After working in U.S. restaurants for a little over five years, I've learned the etiquette of dining out, including what and when to ask for service, and how to leave an accurate tip. Coming to Italy threw me off guard. The range of Italian traditions and practices of dining out changes the way I am used to experiencing a meal.

First off, Italians aren't in a rush when eating. They want to enjoy every last bite. Lunch, or siesta, happens later in the afternoon and is the biggest and longest meal of the day. The traditional siesta was a way for Italian families to spend time together around their busy lives. The market is only open until 14:00 so the freshest bread, vegetables and pastas are purchased in the morning and prepared almost right away.

Around our usual dinner time is when Italians enjoy a snack, or apertivo. Small dishes, maybe even nuts and chips, are provided with a cocktail. It is a social experience, to enjoy the end of daylight before the night begins. This is my favorite time of the day. It is casual and gives you something to hold you over before the real dinner menus are available.

When dining out, the ordering method varies depending on where you go. Locations for food vary from caffeteria to ristorante. A caffeteria is my least favorite, mostly because everything is displayed in front of you and then reheated when ordered. A trattoria is usually a family-owned restaurant, with a limited menu known for the specials of the day. You can order an appetizer, a meat dish and a dessert for around 10 euro.

A pizzeria is known for, well it's pizza, which is usually prepared in a wood burning oven. Small pasta dishes are also available. A ristorante is the highest quality of dining and includes a wide arrangement of dishes, from antipasta, first and main courses, as well as pizzas. A typical antipasta is a salad or bruschetta. First courses are usualy pasta dishes and main courses are usually speciality and meat dishes. Sometimes a first course alone is enough to fill you up.

The surroundings at ristorantes are more sophisticated and offer a bigger wine selection. The smaller places mostly offer their house wine, not the best quality but at a great price. A half liter can cost only 6 euros!

A wine instructor said it's better to spend the couple extra euros on a better wine then continually get the house. A culinary student said most foreigners come to Italy and only get pizza and pasta, so don't be afraid to branch out.

Depending on which level of dining out you choose to experience, especially depending on where you choose to sit, the tip policy changes. Waiters won't bring you a check when they assume you're done, because, once again, Italians want to indulge and enjoy their meals.

TIPS:

When you are ready to leave, simply say "il conto per favore" to ask for the check. Most places include the tip, or even a cover charge if you want to sit. It will say on the menu "servizio incluso" or on the bill you will find a small charge labeled "coverto" for cover charge. It is only necessary to leave a few coins on top of that, usually around 5 percent.

Never pay more that 4 euros for a coffee or gelato if you aren't going to sit and enjoy. If you choose to sit and there is no cover charge, sometimes the higher price makes up for the atmosphere.

A Venetian experience worth the taking

By: Ashley McHale
A trip to Venice would be incomplete without taking the time to ride a real, authentic gondola. The city is infused with waterways that give you the opportunity to gently flow through it and listen to a short history of how the buildings originated.

Riding a gondola with at least four people will be the best way to do it, so your driver can balance the weight and you will be able to divide the cost among a good number of people. The standard price of a ride during the busy summer season is about 100-150 euro for 45 minutes. An Italian student gave us some good advice and said that we should say another driver is giving us a better deal, that way you can bargain with them and get a lower rate.
Taking this advice my group and I were able to have a 45minute ride for 100 euro as opposed to 150 euro. Our driver, Andres, was soft spoken and welcoming reaching out for my hand to let me on his gondola with red love seats and black silk benches.


We sat and relaxed while he took us under the Bridge of Sighs, which was unfortunately under construction, and he told us how the bridge was the last thing for prisoners to see before they were incarcerated. He also mentioned how this is a long told legend as we glided past the dark prison with rod ironed windows and cracking brick walls.

One of my group members asked, “Aren’t you supposed to be singing?” Andres laughed and shook his head, “ You wouldn’t want me to do that,” he said. He then pointed out Marco Polo’s house and said hello to his fellow gondola drivers. The drivers wear the quintessential black and white stripe shirt, straw hat, a great tan and for the most part pearly white smiles. Their charm alone gives you good reason to commit to taking a ride.

FI-PI-LI, Manually

By Pamela Birchard

Florence, Pisa, Livorno: I’ve plotted those destinations and relentlessly head toward them, despite confusing road signs symbolized by arrows and exclamation points, the obvious anxiety of my passengers, the protesting car horns as we lurch forward, whether it’s our turn on the roundabout or not. No stopping us now!

In a packed rental Fiat Panda, the Italian outer bound [Fi-Pi-Li] seemed overwhelming. My only compass is the speedometer and the street names, which I don't understand at first glance. All I know is I must exit at Empoli Oeste. That means west! I'm getting the hang of this. Just drive for an hour and make it to Certaldo, a small countryside town and home to the Mercantia festival.

As my courageous test of driving skills begins, excitement fills my stomach as I switch gears. I reach my first bump in the road, a roundabout, and forget to yield. Cars come from behind me, to the right of me, and in the meantime I’m looking out for the ones ahead of me. It was 20:00 after all, traffic continued throughout and everyone on the road headed for a different exit, crisscrossing madly.

The passengers’ alerts exclaiming, “watch out!” and “turn here!” shake my senses, and I accelerate quickly, jerking forward. At least we survived the first left turn.

Until a fancy, more familiar European car honks loudly at me. This Mercedes must have been within a meter of my brake lights. My chair and my foot are as forward as they can be. The poor Fiat will not go fast enough. Go! Go! is what the honks yell. To swerve or to stay, I guess I am in the left lane after all.

How can they get away with driving this fast? Since the police rarely speak English, I just took advice from the receptionists at both the Europcar rental and tourist information offices. They both recommend not driving within Florence. On the “outer routes” the speed limit is 90 km even though at 110 km, cars still zoom by me.

Finally getting off FI-PI-LI at Empoli, since I didn’t need to reach Pisa or Livorno, another roundabout points me in an unfamiliar direction. I stall. My first mistake, then grinding gears in fear of more horns and tail gates. The road becomes narrow and empty, with trees on either side.

At last, an affirming sign, no need to reverse. I know the cracks and humps in the road keep me at a steady speed. It is bumpy and dark and I am concerned for the other riders and drivers. But it is a straight transition into the town and next thing you know, we’re there. Let the Mercantia festivities begin. I park and lift the brake.

Coming back, well after midnight,I watch out for one ways that look like two ways, roadblocks, and blind spots, particularly from those on Vespas. Pedestrians roam aimlessly and parking spots are hard to come by.

The rental process seemed pretty straightforward. The agent let us park the Fiat at the shop. To rent a car, you must be 18 years or older, but if you’re not 25 or over, you must pay an extra 12 euros. Insurance was 30 euros, and as long as I didn’t go over 100 kilometers, the total price was 104 euros, since I was an Italian resident. They provided us with a map and directions, even though for an additional 30 euros, GPS would have been nice.

Necessary Accessories

By: Ashley McHale
Shopping for clothing and accessories in Italy can be a little intimidating, considering Italians hold fashion in such high regard. Going with my preconceived notions of fashion I think it is smart to purchase a few staple pieces,interchangeable and affordable.

After arriving in Florence and seeing the sleek, flowing styles worn by the locals made me immediately want to go shopping and use their trends as my influence. I started small by picking up a belt in the leather market. Leather is worn by nearly every Italian I see, whether it be a belt, shoes or a bag. Genuine Italian leather is a common commodity in Florence but finding the right stand with a reasonable price is key.

I had been seeing statement belts warn on the high waist in a variety of colors. I loved how flattering they looked on the women I had seen and knew I needed one. I chose a neutral color so that it would match a few tops and dresses, that way I could get a lot of use out of it. It was only 10 euro and great quality.

Accessories are my favorite thing to shop for because you can wear some almost everyday, whereas your favorite dress or top can only be worn every so often. Keeping that in mind, I continued my quest for fine Italian accessories. I next purchased a black leather bag at a small shop down the street from the leather market. It has excellent quality and can be worn four different ways. It's a medium-large size and was 60 euro.


All I can look forward to now is wearing my authentic accessories at home and wait to be asked, "Where did you get that?" And say, casually, " Oh I bought it in Florence."

Sculptures: the Perfect Models

By: Christen Calloway

Art is abundant in Florence, especially sculptures. Michelangelo’s sculptures are the perfect models for sketching because they never move. I particularly enjoyed drawing David at the Accademia and Night of the tombs of the Medici in the Medici Chapels connected to San Lorenzo.

One afternoon, I buy a soft graphite pencil, eraser, and pencil sharpener at the art store down the street and go to sketch David. There are always open chairs or benches surrounding the massive ill-proportioned man, and you can see him even if there are thousands of people in the museum. I sit in between a mother and her son in an empty chair, the son curiously watching me as I timidly draw David’s torso, not used to having an audience. Several people change seats by the time I leave, each interested in my sketch and trying to steal photographs of the statue; no photos are allowed.

A few days later I go to the Medici Chapels to draw. Tourist rarely visit this museum and it is crowd free at all hours of the day. Alone most of the time, with the exception of the guards, I turn the forms of the female Night’s masculine arm.

Sketching or drawing the art you see in Florence is a good way to study the art here, it makes you concentrate on every detail of the sculpture or painting and really understand it. I never realized that Michelangelo emphasized David's proportions by making his hands gigantic until I sketched him. It is hard not to get artistic in the heart of the Renaissance with great masters work around every corner.

Hiking to the elusive Guvano Beach

By: Christen Calloway

Secluded, quiet, and adults only, the magical cove I am determined to find. Guvano Beach is the only “clothing optional” beach in Cinque Terre, which means “five lands.” The villages that make up the lands are, from south to north, Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza and Monterosso.

A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Cinque Terre has been restored and preserved in large part because of fees hikers pay to walk the often steep and rugged pathways that connect the five villages. Although not entirely car-free, the area is remarkably clean and unspoiled. You can reach Cinque Terre by train from any major city with several trains per day and it is also possible to drive to the five lands, though parking is sparse.

With the sun glaring, we walk the least challenging flat coastal path toward Corniglia for 45 minutes, and stumble upon hand-carved maps showing us stairs and the tunnel to Guvano. We pound up the stairs past where the path is closed for repairs and continue north to the foot of the steps to Corniglia, a dead end. Confused as to where the path continues, we find stairs leading to a small house and a gate leading to beaches below. A woman and her daughter appear with a key to the gate and I yell “Mi Scusi!” In broken Italian, I ask where Guvano Beach is. She smiles and says, “Oh! Guvano!” and she gestures to go around the corner of the house. I interpret her next movements as button pushing, and she says “Light? Bzzz.”

We round the corner to find a tunnel with painted scenes of nude figures on a beach, “Guvano Beach one kilometer through tunnel” one sign says. In mouth of the pitch-black tunnel there is an intercom with the words “Push here for lights,” so we push. And we push. And nothing happens. Our group of four young women begins to have second thoughts about the black abyss before us. Tech-savvy students, we pull out cell phones, no good. Cameras, better, but not enough.

One of my companions wants to turn back, but I offer to lead the way with the LCD screen on the back of my large camera. We stay to the left and walk slowly on the sidewalk of the cavernous tunnel. Every step, incline, and slippery spot we shout “STEP!” to warn the girl behind us so she doesn’t trip.

The tunnel takes a curve and we are suddenly in a darkness I had never experienced. We imagine what kinds of creatures lurk in the blackness. I block the terrifying thoughts of bats and focus on the ground before me: it is cool and wet, and the girls wearing flip-flops call it muddy and slimy.

We hear a loud noise coming towards us, like a train or a truck, and I have the sudden urge to bolt. We stare into the abyss like soon-to-be road kill and the train in the tunnel next to us passes.

Timidly, we proceed, rounding a bend where – at last! – we see a tiny light. Our pace quickens. Then we hear footsteps behind us. Muggers? No, just two better-prepared beach-goers with flashlights.

The tunnel opens up to an oasis of trees and a clearly marked gravel path. We pass three men at a table under an umbrella, half expecting to pay them a fee to use the beach, but no one stops us and the beach is free.

One member of the flashlight couple, from Atlanta, asks, “How did you find out about the gay beach?” After I tell him about the guidebooks I read, a naked man with no shoes walks leisurely past, smoking a cigarette. We giggle for a moment about the man’s nudity and get it out of our system.

We look down the rockslide below, “Is that the only way down?” my friends ask. I tell them I have done this before and give tips on how to make it down the scary slope. As we begin our descent, one of the gentlemen from Atlanta offers to help us down. I say I can handle it, but nearly fall all the way down the slope when a rock underfoot gives way and sends me sliding on my butt. But then I gaze on the elusive Guvano Beach, paradise achieved.

We strip down to our swimsuits and sprint into the turquoise sea. Perfecto! The water is refreshing but not cold. It is our near-private oasis, with only eight other people in sight, each in pairs. We swim out to where the salty sea turns royal blue and yell, “You can see straight to the bottom!” We high-five and congratulate each other on making it through the adventure. We float in the ocean and stare at the green terraced vineyards above and the black cliffs that surrounded us.

Peggy Guggenheim, her legend lives on

By: Ashley McHale
Going on tours of museums in Italy can be very drawn out and detailed, especially at 9 am. Touring the Peggy Guggenheim museum is an experience that can inspire you in to a point you want to know more. At least that’s what I took from it.

Walking into the courtyard and through the glass doors I didn’t know what to expect really. I thought we would see a few great works from Italian artists, most of which I wouldn’t understand but could appreciate. I was wrong. Our tour guide introduced himself and welcomed us to the museum. The museum, which was Peggy Guggenheim’s home, sits on the Grand Canal in Venice.

The incredible wide white home with black rod iron decals was once the collectors living space of luxury and is now full of works of modern art by hundreds of artists including Pablo Picasso, Mark Rothko and Jackson Pollock. Each room is representing a different style, but all of the works are specifically placed and have Peggy’s stamp of approval.

Peggy Guggenheim was encouraged by friends to open a gallery and collect modern art after World War II because of the significance of change in art and the birth of contemporary styles. That she did, and her museum showcases the most notable works of her time. Her more personal rooms, her bedroom and bathroom, hold the works that were closest to her heart.

What was once her bathroom is now dedicated to her daughter Pegeen’s talents. Peggen Vail was the daughter of Peggy Guggenheim and Laurence Vail, a painter and Peggy’s first husband. Pegeen’s early years were spent meeting with some of the most talented artists of the 20th century. At the age of twelve she began painting and her mother was a constant supporter of her work as well as other female artists of the time.

Pegeen’s pieces are very bright and fantasy-like and are of mostly doll like figures in on the canals of Venice. They are fun and joyful which was contradictory to her personal life. Pegeen’s marital problems caused her to have a problem with alcoholism, which took her life at an early age.

The Peggy Guggenheim museum should not be missed when visiting Venice. She was an icon of the city and left it a historical showcase of art from the 20th century. Her lavish ways and passionate personality come out in her home. You get a true sense of her life and may even get a few stories of some of the crazy things she took part in.



Our tour guide took us to the back of her home overlooking the canal and mentioned that it is a legend that Peggy would drink a bottle of prosecco every night and throw the empty bottles in the canal. Our group laughed but I imagined how exciting it would have been to share some prosecco with Peggy and talk about modern art.

Cinque Terre Reverie

By Christen Calloway

Full of German, Italian, and American vacationers and a mix of native Italians, Cinque Terre is an ideal location for outdoor recreation. Whether it’s lounging in the sun, swimming in the calm salty sea, or hiking from town to town through the terraced vineyards and lemon orchards.

Walking through the five small towns of Cinque Terre is a warm, welcoming experience. The coastal villages are filled with locals who actually get to live in such a breathtaking part of the world. The area is, of course, filled with anxious tourists during the summer, but is really made up of people that live their lives on the coast. Going on with their daily routines of working or hanging laundry, it is an easygoing lifestyle they seem to love, judging by their tans and smiling faces.

When hiking the paths of Cinque Terre, the view from above can be a little scary when looking over the edge. Sharp, dark rocks extend down forever, ending in the clear turquoise sea. A tricky balancing act requires staying alert at the steps and curves ahead while also stopping to appreciate the endless horizon, which can be done at almost any point through all 9 kilometers of Cinque Terre hiking paths. Sturdy shoes, not flip flops, are recommended on posters in the towns and in all guidebooks, although many were spotted slipping on path pebbles wearing thin sandals.

While outdoor activities are endless, some parts of Cinque Terre are skimpy on restaurants. The trails themselves are part of a national park, so don't expect any refreshments you don't pack in yourself. Beware of toaster-oven pizzas and microwave pasta seen in Riomaggiore cafes where service lags drastically, as far as servers completely disappearing. The pesto, which is famous in Cinque Terre, is tasty but not outstanding. Stick with the white wine that is made there, which is cheap and deliciously fresh (but be careful you don't get the tres-sweet variety, unless you are having it with dessert.)

Be sure to book hotel rooms in advance during the high season as accommodations are limited and Cinque Terre is a popular vacation spot for Europeans as well as Americans. Much quieter than Rome, Florence, or Venice, plan to relax and unwind at this charming destination.

Mercato Centrale: A Lesson on Cheese

Murano: The Art of Glass Making

Floating into Venice

BY ASHLEY MCHALE

Unlike other cities in Italy, Venice is one of a kind. Most Venetians consider their land a separate entity because of their unique culture and the major bodies of water that pour into the city.


The air is clear and no cars can swerve in the narrow roads. Through the Grand Canal boats roam through numerous waterways.

The waves splashing and the sun reflecting off ancient buildings is the first sight of Venice, and one of the most beautiful.


Most known for its gondolas, Venice's channels are filled with mystery and elegance. It takes exploring through the small pathways to get a true glimpse of its character, while creating a peaceful and relaxing journey to a gorgeous city.



Though a few tourists have discovered the land of brightly painted houses and tiny canals, foreigners are only on the main drag. It is easy to venture into an alley and find empty plazas with laundry hanging on clothing lines in front of pink and turquoise houses.


It is a city that can only be explored by boat or by foot but the imaginative views substantiate the slow pace you will take while and taking the city in.

Siena

Siena is a wondrous city of magical landscape and majestic buildings. Between the vast history of the city and the hundreds of grapes grown here, Siena maintains itself as one of the most beautiful and diverse cities in Tuscany.

Walking through Siena the smells of sangiovese grapes will erode your senses. The winding and hilly roads lead to the main square in which the horse race, Il Pailo, takes place dating back centuries ago.

Standing where Saint Benedict stood many times and gave some of the best speeches known to man, I can see the true origins of Siena. The narrow streets dictate the neighborhoods that separated this great Tuscan city as the Piazza Del Campo unites it.

Venturing outside of the city square, a garden oasis awaits. I step outside to a stone patio, climb the stairs and pass through the garden gates. Passing under trees and past tomato plants leads to a magnificent view of the city and the countryside. I soak in the view, the history and the legacy.

When In Rome

Beautiful churches and ancient buildings span across much of Rome, displaying its obvious architectural significance. The city is vast with many parks, tall buildings and wide streets and sidewalks, making this city the most modern in Italy while still being the most ancient.

The sites in Rome are taught in classrooms and are seen in textbooks, but in person, the size and detail give off a completely different feeling and lesson. Walking through the Vatican and analyzing each sculpture closely, you feel as though you are experiencing the making of it.

Hearing about the trials and tribulations Michelangelo went through to paint the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel makes your heart soar for him and his dedication. Staring at the ceiling for as long as possible to take in every inch, your neck begins to ache and you can't help but wonder how he was able to produce such a captivating masterpiece. These masterpieces encompass the entire city and we are lucky enough to marvel at them all.


Beyond Rome's main characteristics we all know very well now resides Caravaggio's famous and Christen's favorite painting, Calling of Saint Matthew, at Chiesa San Luigi dei Francesei. He is one of the most famous painters of Italy because of his skill, his red toned palate, and his use of "Chiaroscuro" or light and dark.

The paintings are dark and barely visible until someone puts a coin into a machine and suddenly the painting appears: barefoot Jesus, barely illuminated, pointing at Matthew, with light from the window shining down on Matthew to heighten the experience of divine presence.

This presence can be seen through all of Rome, a city juxtaposed with ancient and modern architecture, stories both true and dear, connecting old and new in a place where the Empire once stood powerful and the heavens still shine down.

Leather Market Low-down

By: Kim Manning

Carts line the street and pedestrians mosey through the leather market in Piazza San Lorenzo. Beautiful bags, jackets and shoes line the walkways taunting each passerby.

The bright colors flail in the wind and each shop keeper tries their hardest to get you to purchase something from them. The first time I ever walked down that street, I didn’t realize the intensity of the people.

“You buy now!” said one man. He angrily tried forcing a bag in my hand. He tried to knock down the price. He tried to show me other options. Apparently, window shopping is not accepted here. My initial experience made me not want to go back, but the gorgeous bags and belts over rid that thought.

At my second experience at the leather market, I looked from afar. The eager shop keepers are just a little too forward for me and looking from a distance made the experience much more enjoyable.

As soon as I saw something that caught my eye, I made my way over. I prepared for the worst. I found a burnt orange leather bag. It had tie straps and could be used as a shoulder bag, or draped across your body, 30 euro in cash (35 on a card).

In addition, eager shoppers can find bracelets 2 for 5 euro or scarves 3 for 15. The leather market also has little souvenirs and knick knacks to buy for your loved ones at home.

Emergency Shopping Situation

by Pamela Birchard

When I arrived in Florence, my luggage did not until three days later. You never know when you might need essential items in a foreign country, where you don't understand the labels or know the place to buy them. Take a toothbrush for instance. It cost me 3 euros. And deodorant, which is hard to come by, cost 5 euros. Wearing the same clothes for three days is no fun, so even finding a place that sells undergarments at a decent price is also tricky, costing me 11 euros for three pairs. It frustrates me because I know I have these things in my suitcase and it is missing somewhere in the airline's monitoring system. Not only do you need to prepare for dire situations like that, but think of all the additional necessities, especially when the trip lasts for a month and you'll be staying in a vacant apartment.

Of all the things I knew I needed to get, toilet paper, laundry detergent, dish soap, trash bags, and food of course, some items made the shopping list I would never expect.



Our apartment windows are open and bare, no screens included. This is an easy target for bugs, and on the first, hot and humid night, mosquitoes had a feast on my skin. We thought "OFF!" candles would do the trick. No such luck. But if "Vape Zanzare" didn't signify the product, the image of a fly did. They looked like spiral incense, smelled like a campfire, and didn't solve the problem sufficiently. The next time, we found plug ins, and since then, the bites have been few and far between.

Luckily, supermarkets and pharmacies are all around the center of the city. Just look for "Despar" or "Supermercati II Centro." A pharmacy is always noticeable by the lit-up green cross but are closed on Sunday. The supermarkets are open until around 7 or 8 p.m. If you come prepared, you may only need to visit each place one time.

TIPS:
Bring your toothbrush and any other immediate toiletries in your carry-on. They must meet airport regulations for liquids but it's worth feeling clean after a long flight.

Make sure your apartment or hostel is equipped, otherwise you might find yourself drying off with a pillowcase or tossing and turning on a bare mattress.

When purchasing an European adapter at your local electronic store, read the label since a typical adapter is different from an Italian one, which usually has smaller prongs.

Handmade Italian Sandals

By: Christen Calloway

While some of the shops in Florence claim to sell handmade Italian shoes, I stumbled upon an actual shoemaker and his shop, Lavorazione Artigiana, in the West Oltrarno one evening. I have to ring the doorbell before the shoemaker lets me in. I wander around the tiny storefront and see his workshop through the open wooden door. I look at the unique designs of his shoes and he tells me he makes all of them. Looking at the shoes, I see they are stamped with his logo, “Francesco Da Firenze: Al Ponte Alla Carraia.” I find a comfortable pair of brown leather sandals and choose to spend the extra Euro for something handmade.

Francesco Da Firenze: Lavorzione Artigiana is located at Via Santo Spirito 62 r, Firenze.

Tuscan Wine School

By: Kim Manning
As a group, we spent a day at the Tuscan Wine School learning about and tasting different wines from across the country.

The Bargello: Not Just an Art Museum

By: Christen Calloway

All the museums in Florence are packed during the summer, but on Sunday mornings, the Bargello is nearly empty. The National Bargello Museum is housed in the medieval former Palace of the Captain of the People and became a sculpture museum in 1886, the fifth centenary of Donatello’s birth. Donatello is considered the first Renaissance sculptor and made significant strides in the effort for naturalism as seen during the Renaissance.

The Bargello is one of my favorite museums because of the wide variety of artifacts and sculptures. I like it, too, because the lenient staff lets me take photographs, a rare occurrence in Florence, although even these patient guards have their limits. I lingered in photographing the audition pieces for the Gates of Paradise and was scolded from across the room.

The museum houses one of Michelangelo’s first sculptures, Bacchus, in a room on the first floor directly around the corner from the entrance to the museum. Cardinal Raffaele Riario commissioned Bacchus during the Renaissance between 1497 and 1499, but the Cardinal disliked the figure and sold the sculpture to his banker, Jacopo Galli, who appreciated Bacchus’ drunken gaze and stance.

When I took art history classes in college, I studied the first nude of the Renaissance, Donatello’s David, which is on the second floor of the museum. David, the biblical figure and mascot of Florence, stands resting with his sword in hand and his foot on Goliath’s head. The museum has a large collection of Donatello, Ammannati, and Giambologna sculptures. Also notable is Giambologna’s Mercury on the first floor of the museum.

The Bargello also has an eclectic collection of silverware, keys, tapestry, furniture, tobacco pipes, religious relics and jewelry. I love cameo and antique jewelry, and I found the jewelry at the Bargello intriguing because of the beautiful craftsmanship and antiquity—some of it dating back to the Middle Ages. When looking at the frescoed vaulted arches of the ceilings and through the gorgeous windows into the courtyard below, it is hard to believe that prisoners were stored in these rooms from 1502 to 1857.

Each July, the Bargello hosts the Florence Dance Festival with a stage set up in the interior courtyard. It is also host to operas, orchestras, and plays; a schedule of events can be found at the ticket counter of the museum and on advertisements throughout Florence.

The Bargello is open 8:15 to 14:00 every day, Via del Pronscolo 4, museum tickets cost 4 Euro, event tickets are under 25 Euro and discounted for students.

A Run through Florence

By: Kim Manning

Trotting down the uneven cobblestone road, the trek is much more strenuous than satisfying. Weaving in and out of fanny packs and parasols, I get funny glares and absolutely no sympathy of my mission.

Running in a foreign country is exactly that, an entirely different experience. There are no smiles from oncoming fellow runners, no polite “I’ll let you through” gestures from pedestrians and absolutely no water fountains along the way.

To me, running is therapeutic; it’s calming. However, the hustle and bustle of Florence makes it difficult to fully enjoy the experience. In the city center, tourists run amuck with map in hand trying to decipher what each street is called and where the street sign even is. It makes for many obstacles.

Here are a few tips to make your run a little better:

1. If you have trail running shoes, bring them. The uneven pavement makes for an uneasy run. Bringing trail shoes or shoes with good stabilization will help to prevent injuries.

2. Go early in the morning, or late in the evening in the summer months. Make sure to stay in well lit areas, but it is much cooler at night and not nearly as many tourists that you will need to weave in and out of.

3. Drink lots of water through the day. Runners always need to stay hydrated, but with temps that can reach the 100s it is especially important.

4. Find a buddy if you can. No matter how long you are in Florence for, the roads can be confusing and some are tight and dark. Stay with a friend and try to stay in areas that you are familiar with or just continue down one road the entire time.

5. PAY ATTENTION. Keep your headphones on low volume and make sure you are watching where you are going, because the tourists in Florence will not watch you! (I nearly tripped over a suitcase because someone didn’t move out of the way but saw me coming.)

Open Air Opera

By Nancy Day


July in Italy is usually dry and hot, cooling off after sunset to create the perfect ambience for outdoor opera, which starts at 9:15.
I saw Die Zauberflote, written by Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart and usually performed in German, in Italian (Il Flauto Magico) at the Boboli Gardens in Florence, and Carmen, set in Spain, written and performed in French by George Bizet, at the centuries-old Roman arena in Verona.
The Magic Flute cost 44 Euros (ticket bought on the Internet) and lasted well past midnight on this weeknight. The Queen of the Night was appropriately domineering and performed the challenging coloratura of her demanding second aria skillfully. The other singers I particularly liked were the trio of angelic-sounding boys who appear periodically as chorus. The audience of all ages was composed primarily of Italians. The setting is lovely, surrounded by gardens and fountains on the south side of the River Arno, with a capacity on bleacher-like seats of 3,000.
I walked from my apartment near the Duomo, but you can also take a bus or taxi to the entrance.
My daughter and I went to Verona to see Carmen, arranged by Fun Florence, an activities service targeting the thousands of international students who study abroad here. For 80 Euros, we made the trip north to Verona in an air-conditioned bus, complete with monitors and DVD player. To get in the mood for Verona, we watched the 1996 Baz Lurhrmann movie version of Romeo and Juliet, starring Leonardo DiCaprio and Claire Danes, updated to the mythical “Verona Beach” where fast cars and gang feuds rule. We arrived in the real Verona, riverside, no beach, in late afternoon and took a walking tour, first stop, the tourist-clogged Juliet’s house.
Verona is a beautiful city, calmer than others we visited, dominated in its historic center by the Roman amphitheatre, built in the first century AD and seating nearly 20,000. Since 1913, opera has been staged there every summer.
We were advised to take – or rent – pillows to make sitting on the pink marble more palatable, but that turned out to be the least of our problems in seeing this famous opera in four acts. (People who pay more have reserved actual seats, but the hoi polloi of general admission find seats where they can higher up and are free to go and come during the evening.)
Matters began promisingly when the gong lady came out to announce the opera’s start. The full orchestra filed in and began the well-known overture. Audience members lit candles, handed out free at the doors. Then donkeys and dancing girls and what looked like a cast of hundreds entered the main stage and two side ones. The nearly full moon slipped in and out of high clouds at the stage end of the amphitheatre; soon lightning cut the sky at the other end. And then came the rains.
People fled to the exits, but not as fast as the professional musicians gathered up their expensive instruments and sought shelter. The audience huddled close together in the covered passageways and came back when the rain abated. After all, Carmen had not yet made her first entrance. This routine was repeated three times.
Announcements were made in Italian, German and English. The gong lady dutifully reappeared after each break in the weather to signal another try. (A woman in period dress who came on the stage by herself to start – or restart – the proceedings with a series of increasingly strong gong hits.)
The orchestra returned, to much applause. The animals and players returned. The overture was skipped and we got right into the lovely Michaela coming to the crowded square to tell Don Jose news of his mother, immediately followed by more lightning and thunder and another rush to shelter.
Around midnight, the troupers tried again. This time, Carmen had the chance to sing her two arias in the first act, before the announcements in three languages revealed that the local weather authorities said the weather was “stable,” which for this evening, July 23, 2010, meant that we could expect more showers and thunderstorms, so the performance was canceled.
Those of us still awake watched the full version of the opera, filmed in Verona, on the way back to Florence, as it did, indeed, keep raining.
Since rain is rare, however, I still recommend the trip. The costumes are stunning, the animals and children beautifully behaved, the singers and musicians magnificent. If I said in Chicago or New York that I got drenched at the opera, people would laugh. But it was worth it here in the heart of Italy to experience opera as people have since the art form was invented.
More information:
http://www.arena.it/en-US/HOMEen.html
www.florenceforfun.com
http://www.festivalopera.it/incms/opencms/operafestival_en/sito-operafestival_en/Contenuti_operafestival_en/locations/visualizza_asset.html?id=429&pagename=480
www.festivalopera.it

Atmospheric photos from the cheap seats

By: Kim Manning

As Italian food is near and dear to my heart, I was ecstatic to come to the land of pizza, pasta and bread: the three main food groups.

DISCLAIMER: Italian pizza is much different. The crust is thinner and crispier, it’s lighter and fresher and you don’t feel guilty about polishing off an entire one to yourself.

Osteria Dell Agnolo, located about a block away from the Duomo on Borgo San Lorenzo 24/r, has a Tomato Cucumber and Basil salad for 5 euro that is perfect for hot summer days. The oval plate is dressed in garden fresh veggies, and I added a little olive oil and balsamic for a delicious spin-off of a caprese salad.

Next, the Salame Piccante pizza, (pepperoni) for 7 euro is crisp with a thin layer of oil and tomato with light cheese with sporadic, thick salame. The sauce is tangy, but light and is a perfect complement to the additional toppings and smokey flavor that comes from their wood burning oven.

The pizza overflows on a large serving plate, but can be shared… if you’re willing.

As Frank Sinatra sings in the background, share a ½ liter of wine with a friend at only 8 euro and snack on some bread with oil and parmesan cheese as you wait for your meal at Da’i Boia, a quiet trattoria just east of the Duomo at Dell’Oriulo 58/R.

For an entrée; I had the Gnocchi, Gorgonzola e Rugola, 8 euro, which is in a creamy sauce with lightly dusted Arugula adding a fresh flavor to compliment the rich gnocchi dumplings.

Unlike many American Italian-style dishes, these look skimpy at first sight as noodles don’t even span the entire plate, however, your stomach will disagree with your eyes afterwards.

Adding to the experience, Tony Vincenzo will serve your food with a smile on his face while singing the entire time. And if you’re lucky, Tony might surprise you at the end of your meal with some limoncello… Salute.

Da’I Boia is open from 12,00 to 1,00am everyday and Dell Agnolo is open from 12,00 to 1,30am.

Tips on finding the Best Gelato

By: Christen Calloway

Gelato is an art form in Florence, and Grom has mastered it. My favorite flavors have been Lampone (raspberry) and Pistacchio. In each fruit flavor, you can taste and feel the pulp or the seeds from the fruit it was created with. Even Pistacchio has the actual bits of nut inside of every bite. The Stracciatella uses dark chocolate with a rich creme base that melts in your mouth.Grom prides itself on being organic and green; even the spoons are biodegradable and compostable.

Tip: Sometimes Grom runs out of certain flavors towards the closing during the summer, don’t be discouraged; try something else, be adventurous! Everything I have tried has been delicious, even if I normally wouldn’t order it.

Another delicious spot is Gelateria di Neri, where locals line up outside the door for delicious Frutti di Bosco (mixed berries) and Fragola (strawberry). These flavors are common at most gelaterias but the difference is that the seeds are still in the fruit gelato, which is a good way to tell that the gelato is made from real fruit and not powder.

Tip: While gelaterias off of main streets and near major landmarks are usually ridiculously price and not very satisfying, Grom is in an alley way near the Duomo and a small cup only costs 2 Euro. If you’re paying more than 2.50 Euro for the smallest cup, you’re getting ripped off.

How to get there: Grom is the first street on the right of the Duomo if facing steps at the front entrance, it looks like a random alley way but the line will tell you you've found it. Gelateria di Neri is on the street in between Palazzo Vecchio and the Uffizi, follow the street around a couple of blocks and you’ll see the pink neon sign.

Fashion Forward and Backwards

By: Kim Manning

The elaborate world of fashion has stemmed across the world for centuries with all its bejeweled essence and fabulous followers and in a place where fashion is a way of life, Florence houses the Galleria Del Costume. Located in the Palazzo Pitti, the rigid castle-like structure straight south of the Ponte Vecchio, the Palazzo is home to multiple museums. However, the Museum of Costume is one that caught my eye because of its natural ability to time-laps right in front of your eyes.

As you walk into the exhibit, a large sign greets you and explains the importance of fashion in the world granting you to “respond to the need for novelty which is the essence of fashion itself.”

From evening gowns to change purses, the Museum of Costume gathers items dating back to the late 1700s with side-by-side comparison to those in the mid to late 1900s.

The gowns vary different shapes and sizes depending on the time they were popular. Many different styles were made to make certain parts of the body look larger or smaller than they actually were depending on what was considered “beautiful” at the time.

Each piece has intricate stitching, shining jewels and unique cuts that continue to progress as the time goes on. All of the clothing and accessories that are on exhibit are obviously used, yet surprisingly well kept. Everything is intact and fabrics are bright.

The gallery also showcases shoes, headdresses, coats and men’s fashion from the 1790s and more recent.

A glass box displayed several old fashion magazines that date back to February 1949; which was one of my favorite parts. And as you leave, the front entrance has fashion books about shoes, history, bags and more for the fashion aficionado in all of us.


*Before you plan your trip, check out which temporary gallery is there for the time being. When I went, there was an exhibit by Andrea Zittel called Between Art and Life, as seen in the photo on the right.