SCULPTURES: THE PERFECT MODELS
By Christen Calloway
Art is abundant in Florence, especially sculptures. Michelangelo’s sculptures are the perfect models for sketching because they never move. I particularly enjoyed drawing David at the Accademia and Night of the tombs of the Medici in the Medici Chapels connected to San Lorenzo.
One afternoon, I buy a soft graphite pencil, eraser, and pencil sharpener at the art store down the street and go to sketch David. There are always open chairs or benches surrounding the massive ill-proportioned man, and you can see him even if there are thousands of people in the museum. I sit in between a mother and her son in an empty chair, the son curiously watching me as I timidly draw David’s torso, not used to having an audience. Several people change seats by the time I leave, each interested in my sketch and trying to steal photographs of the statue; no photos are allowed.
THE GARDEN OF EDEN
by Pamela Birchard
What a hike! But a worthwhile one at that. The Boboli Gardens are the main attraction of the Pitti Palace, just south of the River Arno, with spectacular views of both the northern city and southern countryside. The courtyard leading up to the entrance of the gardens seems so open and bare, nature is the last thing on my mind. After walking up a steep slope, a contemporary fountain is the first symbol of a renaissance inspired oasis. The statues date back to the 16th century in serene grattos, tucked away between the paths of trees, leading each and every way; around and about, uphill and down. This sets the scene of an ultimate urban escape.
Many Florentines seem to use the area to relax and escape the cobblestone roads for greenery. An older English couple and frequent visitors of Italy caught up and then kept their pace up with mine and I was impressed. It was a mission for all. When I asked the wife, Lynn, how she liked the views she said they were "lovely, really nice, quite spectacular actually, very picturesque." She was only turned off by the heat and the fact that there were no flowers.
When visiting the Piazza Pitti I definitely recommend bringing a sufficient amount of water and planning ample time. Also, a picnic, blanket and maybe a book to soak it all in. Look through the endless rooms of collections within the square at a steady pace, avoiding the crowds, but please explore the passages of the back yard in a relaxing and intimate fashion.
THE BARGELLO: MORE THAN JUST AN ART MUSEUM
By: Christen Calloway
All the museums in Florence are packed during the summer, but on Sunday mornings, the Bargello is nearly empty. The National Bargello Museum is housed in the medieval former Palace of the Captain of the People and became a sculpture museum in 1886, the fifth centenary of Donatello’s birth. Donatello is considered the first Renaissance sculptor and made significant strides in the effort for naturalism as seen during the Renaissance.
The Bargello is one of my favorite museums because of the wide variety of artifacts and sculptures. I like it, too, because the lenient staff lets me take photographs, a rare occurrence in Florence, although even these patient guards have their limits. I lingered in photographing the audition pieces for the Gates of Paradise and was scolded from across the room.
The museum houses one of Michelangelo’s first sculptures, Bacchus, in a room on the first floor directly around the corner from the entrance to the museum. Cardinal Raffaele Riario commissioned Bacchus during the Renaissance between 1497 and 1499, but the Cardinal disliked the figure and sold the sculpture to his banker, Jacopo Galli, who appreciated Bacchus’ drunken gaze and stance.
When I took art history classes in college, I studied the first nude of the Renaissance, Donatello’s David, which is on the second floor of the museum. David, the biblical figure and mascot of Florence, stands resting with his sword in hand and his foot on Goliath’s head. The museum has a large collection of Donatello, Ammannati, and Giambologna sculptures. Also notable is Giambologna’s Mercury on the first floor of the museum.
The Bargello also has an eclectic collection of silverware, keys, tapestry, furniture, tobacco pipes, religious relics and jewelry. I love cameo and antique jewelry, and I found the jewelry at the Bargello intriguing because of the beautiful craftsmanship and antiquity—some of it dating back to the Middle Ages. When looking at the frescoed vaulted arches of the ceilings and through the gorgeous windows into the courtyard below, it is hard to believe that prisoners were stored in these rooms from 1502 to 1857.
Each July, the Bargello hosts the Florence Dance Festival with a stage set up in the interior courtyard. It is also host to operas, orchestras, and plays; a schedule of events can be found at the ticket counter of the museum and on advertisements throughout Florence. The Bargello is open 8:15 to 14:00 every day, Via del Pronscolo 4, museum tickets cost 4 Euro, event tickets are under 25 Euro and discounted for students.
FASHION FORWARD AND BACKWARDS
By Kim Manning
As you walk into the exhibit, a large sign greets you and explains the importance of fashion in the world granting you to “respond to the need for novelty which is the essence of fashion itself.”
From evening gowns to change purses, the Museum of Costume gathers items dating back to the late 1700s with side-by-side comparison to those in the mid to late 1900s.
The gowns vary different shapes and sizes depending on the time they were popular. Many different styles were made to make certain parts of the body look larger or smaller than they actually were depending on what was considered “beautiful” at the time.
Each piece has intricate stitching, shining jewels and unique cuts that continue to progress as the time goes on. All of the clothing and accessories that are on exhibit are obviously used, yet surprisingly well kept. Everything is intact and fabrics are bright.
The gallery also showcases shoes, headdresses, coats and men’s fashion from the 1790s and more recent.
A glass box displayed several old fashion magazines that date back to February 1949; which was one of my favorite parts. And as you leave, the front entrance has fashion books about shoes, history, bags and more for the fashion aficionado in all of us.
*Before you plan your trip, check out which temporary gallery is there for the time being. When I went, there was an exhibit by Andrea Zittel called Between Art and Life, as seen in the photo on the right.
PEGGY'S COLLECTION
By Ashley McHale
Going on tours of museums in Italy can be very drawn out and detailed, especially at 9 am. Touring the Peggy Guggenheim museum is an experience that can inspire you in to a point you want to know more. At least that’s what I took from it.
Walking into the courtyard and through the glass doors I didn’t know what to expect really. I thought we would see a few great works from Italian artists, most of which I wouldn’t understand but could appreciate. I was wrong. Our tour guide introduced himself and welcomed us to the museum. The museum, which was Peggy Guggenheim’s home, sits on the Grand Canal in Venice.
The incredible wide white home with black rod iron decals was once the collectors living space of luxury and is now full of works of modern art by hundreds of artists including Pablo Picasso, Mark Rothko and Jackson Pollock. Each room is representing a different style, but all of the works are specifically placed and have Peggy’s stamp of approval.
Peggy Guggenheim was encouraged by friends to open a gallery and collect modern art after World War II because of the significance of change in art and the birth of contemporary styles. That she did, and her museum showcases the most notable works of her time. Her more personal rooms, her bedroom and bathroom, hold the works that were closest to her heart.
What was once her bathroom is now dedicated to her daughter Pegeen’s talents. Peggen Vail was the daughter of Peggy Guggenheim and Laurence Vail, a painter and Peggy’s first husband. Pegeen’s early years were spent meeting with some of the most talented artists of the 20th century. At the age of twelve she began painting and her mother was a constant supporter of her work as well as other female artists of the time.
Pegeen’s pieces are very bright and fantasy-like and are of mostly doll like figures in on the canals of Venice. They are fun and joyful which was contradictory to her personal life. Pegeen’s marital problems caused her to have a problem with alcoholism, which took her life at an early age.
The Peggy Guggenheim museum should not be missed when visiting Venice. She was an icon of the city and left it a historical showcase of art from the 20th century. Her lavish ways and passionate personality come out in her home. You get a true sense of her life and may even get a few stories of some of the crazy things she took part in.
Our tour guide took us to the back of her home overlooking the canal and mentioned that it is a legend that Peggy would drink a bottle of prosecco every night and throw the empty bottles in the canal. Our group laughed but I imagined how exciting it would have been to share some prosecco with Peggy and talk about modern art.
